남양주외국인오피걸 포항출장안마

부천콜걸모텔출장군산출장샵후기✖군산출장업계위┉『포항콜걸출장마사지【카톡: po03】(goos20.c0m)출장가격출장샵콜걸Y←⇔2019-01-16-03-35포항☪AIJ⊥오피걸출장코스가격출장미인아가씨↩오피걸↪출장마사지╀포항』충청북도출장안마추천╙통영출장미인아가씨│공주출장샵☯동해출장샵예약

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    포항릉콜걸샵모텔출장
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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    모텔출장제천출장맛사지❂사천콜걸✖『포항출장샵콜걸【카톡: po03】『goos20.c0m』콜걸출장안마출장미인아가씨Y↔▨2019-01-16-03-35포항▫AIJ▧출장샵후기모텔출장출장안마╊콜걸샵⇈출장연애인급☋포항』전주모텔출장✔구미출장샵강추╂영주출장샵콜걸✕진주출장샵창원콜걸후기◄경주출장안마✒『포항콜걸출장마사지『카톡: po03』〖goos20.c0m〗미시출장안마흥출장안마Y╗━2019-01-16-03-35포항☭AIJ◥출장가격콜걸추천출장안마↖오피♧모텔출장◀포항』시흥출장샵안내✿화성콜걸출장안마▥창원오피┏전라남도콜걸출장마사지포항출장색시미녀언니나주콜걸만남▩창원미시출장안마卐『포항출장최강미녀[카톡: po03][goos20.c0m]출장만족보장출장코스가격Y┿★2019-01-16-03-35포항✪AIJ▦외국인출장만남출장미인아가씨출장오쓰피걸↩콜걸샵⇖콜걸출장안마╌포항』나주콜걸샵⇩밀양출장만남☐서울출장만남╕속초출장미인아가씨출장마사지경상남도출장안마↕이천출장샵추천♨『포항콜걸샵【카톡: po03】{goos20.c0m}콜걸출장미인아가씨Y★┯2019-01-16-03-35포항┳AIJ┕출장만족보장출장업소콜걸╚콜걸추천♥출장오쓰피걸⇦포항』태백출장안마추천╚군산출장안마추천☛안양출장색시미녀언니⇔창원출장서비스

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  • 포항출장최고시(카톡: po03)【goos20.c0m】출장샵안내출장마사지Y╬ ┢2019-01-16-03-35포항◄AIJ┧미시출장안마출장샵후기출장만남☆출장샵예약❤콜걸만남❈포항
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    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
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    의왕콜걸업소◢영주출장서비스£『포항출장미인아가씨〖카톡: po03〗(goos20.c0m)출장최강미녀출장최강미녀Y⇢↕2019-01-16-03-35포항△AIJ♂출장서비스출장샵안내콜걸업소┶콜걸샵◑오피걸↪포항』안동출장시♀ 동해외국인출장만남☵동해출장몸매최고✿의정부출장소이스홍성
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    남원모텔출장❧경상남도출장샵♮『포항출장만남【카톡: po03】『goos20.c0m』출장서비스보장출장만남Y╔┏2019-01-16-03-35포항囍AIJ╭콜걸후기출장아가씨역출장안마⇛콜걸출장마사지ⓞ콜걸업소➹포항』김제출장샵예약포항✿강원도출장업계위▨광주출장맛사지┎목포출장최강미녀광주출장최강미녀░제천콜걸후기◘『포항출장샵예약『카톡: po03』{goos20.c0m}출장시출장몸매최고Y❈┃2019-01-16-03-35포항↥AIJ╡출장아가씨콜걸출장몸매최고╊출장색시미녀언니♐출장샵후기┚포항』광명오피♯용인출장샵안내♂김제릉콜걸샵0충청북도출장안마야한곳포항출장오피부천콜걸
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